what makes ‘classical’ design?

classic furniture: unique, one-of-a-kind or a re-iteration of the past

Every so often, you might see a piece of furniture that’s striking, catching your attention for some subliminal reason and you’re hard pressed to figure out why. Is it like something you’ve seen before, somewhere? Does it remind you of something familiar, like from your childhood? Is the wood ‘pretty’, the configuration intriguing or does it just give you some kind of feeling that’s good but you can’t say why?

‘deja vu all over again’

Then again, it could be the proportions of a piece that strike a resonant chord, either pleasing in themselves or reminiscent of a piece you may have seen in a museum sometime. The parts go together seamlessly to form an integrated whole and yet are worthy of closer examination in their own right.

a shape that seems new but is recognizable

Is it the shape of the legs, or the top? The detailing maybe, the way the top opens and the leaves store inside? Birdseye maple?

These are all subjective evaluations and draw a fine, though blurry, line between personal experience and objective ‘truth’. Furniture design, as with architectural design, has antecedents and may be categorized by the kinds of stylistic elements it incorporates into any given piece. For example, the chest of drawers at the top might be defined as Biedermeyer because of its use of black and brown or its smooth curves highlighting a powerful, geometric form or for its use of Art Deco detailing (though, technically, Biedermeyer furniture was produced only in Germany or Austria). Because the piece has elements that seem consistent with that particular style, some observers may fold it into that period as a way of describing it and making it familiar. Does it then become classical because it could be associated with a certain period of historical furniture design?

In the end, ‘classical’ is as nebulous a term as ‘modern’. It evokes a reaction, feelings or memories, that may be an association by the viewer with a particular period of time. With furniture, at least, that association is interpretative and personal. As a descriptive term, ‘timeless’ may be more fitting.

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The Doors

doors play a vital role in house design

Beyond the obvious – the transition between inside and outside and one room to another – doors represent design on a less physical plane: things suggested like opportunity, mystery and security, to name a few. Door design also is a place where architecture and furniture have a chance to collaborate and merge beyond the usually commonplace and practical. At its most stripped-down basic element, a door is a slab or a panel that is still dynamic: by virtue of hinges, rollers or pivoting pins, it opens and closes creating or blocking a passage-way.

a door is a design tabula rasa

A door is a bonus in this regard – an occasion for expression of personal taste or vision. In the first example illustrated here, the homeowner’s surname began with H and he requested a design that would be a stylized iteration of that letter. Using mahogany, maple and glass, the 4′ x 7′ front door not only makes a powerfully contemporary design statement but also sets a commanding focal point for the building’s exterior and draws the visitor in to what surprises may await inside.

In the second example here of custom designed doors, pocket doors separating a dining room from the rest of the house achieved an almost ‘sculptural’ presence by insetting a pair East Indian rosewood room dividers into maple frames. The hand-carved dressing screens, brought back from the Indian sub-continent, add an elegant level of detail to what would’ve been a utilitarian pair of pocket doors.

custom doors get to play with shapes, proportions and materials

The use of a bowed rail, windows graduating in size that follow and highlight the curve, juxtaposed diagonals that draw the eye to the center of the space, the use of vertical paneling to provide a detail contrast with the surrounding frame and the use of mahogany with its rich, warm wood tones all contribute to a feeling that’s created by these garage doors. These are also some of the ‘tricks’ that a furniture designer might employ in crafting a one-of-a-kind cabinet.

A feeling or a sense of balance, intrigue, and ‘looking right’ because the parts are so well integrated together, but more than that, the doors themselves are an expression of the right combination of design, aesthetic and use.

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Wood and What Else?

I love wood; I love working with it, seeing it in its various stages of expression from raw plank to satin-polished surface. Sometimes, though, the use of a ‘complementary’ material in a design enhances wood’s ascendance and also creates a dialogue among the parts that adds depth and substance.

None of this is easy to achieve; in fact, it’s far easier to stick with one material rather than open up what could be a can of worms of interface problems and construction complications. The real trick, and it almost sounds oversimplified, is in designing a piece around the disparate parts rather than trying to make them fit together.

Here’s a brief account of one adventure I had with mixing materials:

A long term designer-client approached me with an intriguing project possibility: a client of his wanted a sideboard, or more specifically, a wine cabinet, and she really liked the look of ‘live edge’ slab tops. In the course of exploring some preliminary options, my designer friend (Chris Beggs of CBBeggs Interiors) suggested also using wrought iron, since the hallway railing was made of it, and some kind of ‘artisan glass’ as a foil to the wood. The design intent was to create a piece of furniture that would combine the uniqueness of its use with the one-of-a-kind nature of the materials.

As an aside, ‘wrought’ iron really means forged steel – commercially available ‘hot-rolled’ steel that is then heated again and worked, either hammered or twisted or bent into a new shape. The work is almost always done ‘by hand’ leaving certain irregularities that bear a signature of ‘character’. Another term for it is ‘blacksmithing’ and, like many other handcrafts, this one has fewer and fewer experienced practitioners.

A ‘live edge’ slab or top is a plank of wood that is sawed and/or milled on just 2 faces; the sides are left wild, or just as they were in the tree – facing the outside. Oftentimes, bark is purposely left on those edges to ‘tell the tale’ with even more graphic emphasis.

‘Artisan glass’ is a broad category that includes any glass formed, slumped or blown that is made using ‘by hand’ processes. Stained glass also falls into this group.

My job, first, was to generate a design that integrated the 3 disparate materials that would make them parts of the whole. The steel, the most structural component, needed to convey a feeling of strength, support, simplicity and yet agility. Its dimensions did not need to be overpowering to convey this; in fact, because of its inherent strength, the thickness of steel parts can be fairly minimal, say, compared to wood. Playing a ‘supporting’ role, the wrought iron should be in the background and not be too self-conscious in the overall design, potentially upstaging the wood which would have the star role in this cast. The choice of the wood was driven, first, by what’s available milled with a slab edge and second, by how its color and grain would ‘play’ with the qualities of the steel/wrought iron. I chose claro walnut because of its rich hue, figured grain characteristics and excellent carving qualities – I’d thought of a way to lend the wood a feeling of being ‘hand-wrought’ like the steel by chip carving the end of the slab:

Lastly, I designed ‘twists’ in steel legs to give them a sense of fluidity or movement which runs contrary to the way steel is usually perceived.

Solving the glass ‘problem’ was not so easy. Glass, like metal, is a ‘cold’ material as opposed to wood which is ‘warm’. Cold materials feel cold to the touch because they are heat sinks; that is, they siphon heat off of the body. I went through many samples of hand made glass seeking one that played with the wood rather than overpowered it and also conveyed a feeling of more warmth than ‘coolth’. Finally, almost accidentally, I hit upon a variety of stained glass that both complemented and mirrored the figure in the claro walnut and was still translucent. At the same time, its color played off of the wine bottles in the adjacent racks. Bingo:

All in all, this project, through a process of discovery, achieved a design resolution based upon sensitivity to the materials’ qualities, then highlighting their strengths and harnessing the design to a coherent expression of those qualities and how they worked together. There is a resulting sense of wholeness and integrity that results from such a respect for the materials and using the ensuing design as a vehicle to showcase their qualities rather than the other way around.

 

 

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A Case for Custom

You’ve taken on a lot in choosing to redo your kitchen or build the addition or create a study or rec-room in the basement. The parade of problems, alternatives, solutions and decisions has seemed endless and has left you questioning your sanity for having taken this project on in the first place. With construction being almost complete, it seems like the end is in sight, and yet, suddenly, there is one more gamut to run: choosing the furnishings.
Seems like a no-brainer at this point – you’ve sunk a small fortune into structural, mechanical and cosmetic upgrades to your property, why would you want to draw the process out and spend any more than is absolutely necessary? Any furniture product from the ‘box stores’ would certainly be adequate, save time and money and draw the difficult process of ‘upgrade’ to an expeditious close.

Here’s why: even though it’s the last step, the way you furnish your project, whether it’s new construction or a room tune-up, will be the part with which you most closely interact. These are items you will use, look at, touch and also present to the rest of the world as what represents your home. While the structural alterations may have created the space, your choices for furnishing it will have a greater impact upon how you use that space; putting the time and money into getting what works the best for you is a worthy investment. In the relative scheme of things, choosing to have something made for your space and to your specifications will end up being a bargain.

Breakfast bar with custom cabinets to match the existing kitchen, live edge walnut slab and custom designed and built bar stools

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Original Design or One-off or Knock-off?

euclid tableThese terms are often bandied about when describing unusual or unique products, particularly regarding furniture. Is there any difference between them? Does it matter? The purist might argue that in order to preserve its integrity, a design must be without recognizable precedent. While that might be valid for a device or mechanical invention, it doesn’t practically apply to a piece of furniture, any of which has some kind of an antecedent. In fact, successful – that is, comfortable, useful, enduring and beautiful – furniture pieces are derived or evolved from others that have come before. In the purest sense, to be unique means to start from scratch with each project which is neither practical nor desirable. That said, a skillful designer might want to avoid the pitfall of reworking some other original design into just a replica or a ‘knockoff’. One of the fascinating aspects about furniture design, though, is that in altering dimensions or toying with proportions or details or transitions, what is familiar and maybe even commonplace can be transformed into something extraordinary if not technically unique.

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a fine finishing primer

What is the finest finish for my furniture?

I hear this question a lot. My stock answer: it depends on what you want.

What will you be using the piece for?

How much use/traffic will it get?

What kind of look do you want?

Do you want the finish to be repairable?

For all the variables, there are only two basic choices for fine finishing: lacquer or oil.

By ‘lacquer’, I mean any finish that lays on top of the furniture surface. This includes varnish, polyurethane, acrylic, latex as well as the so-called ‘high tech’ finishes like polyester, catalyzed varnish and catalyzed polyurethane.

fine finishing - lacquer

 

These are also called ‘film finishes’.

 

 

 

Film finish? This is a trade term referring to a material that’s laid on either by brush or spray. It goes on as a liquid and when the solvents evaporate, a ‘sheet’ or ‘film’ of the material remains, wrapping the piece of furniture.

 

Oil is any product, mainly linseed, tung or soy derivative, that penetrates the surface of the wood and forms a bond called a polymerized finish.

fine finishing - oil on cherry

 

Polymerized finish? Not as complicated as it sounds. This refers to any finishing material that penetrates the surface of the wood, joins with the wood fibers and through the heat generated from hand-rubbing, forms a protective layer that’s actually part of the wood itself.

Aren’t there more choices?

Nope.

That’s basically it. Sure, there are slight differences between lacquer and varnish and polyurethane but that has more to do with performance than with kind. Besides, nowadays with much tighter regulations on the amount of fumes allowed in the evaporation period, more and more film finishes are waterborne and/or blends of many kinds of materials. It’s hard to find a lacquer anymore that’s pure nitrocellulose lacquer – the old stuff – and not an acrylic. Polyurethane and varnish are both blends now of many different substances all meant to limit the amount of ‘fuming-off’ during the drying process.

The only other choice that a film finish offers is sheen level. That is, you can specify glossy, satin or matte.

With oil, there used to be only linseed oil and tung oil. Nowadays a new variety is available that’s made from soy products and has superior polymerizing – read protective – qualities. It even smells wholesome.

Oil’s sheen level is somewhere between matte and satin, depending on the wood and how vigorously it’s rubbed.

 

No one size fits all: there are pros and cons to each approach

A film finish has the reputation for providing better protection against damage from moisture and scratches; however, this feature can be misleading.

For one thing, the surface hardness and resistance to scratches, dings and dents is only as sound as the substrate; that is, even if you put the toughest finish on a softer species of wood, its scratch resistance is less than optimal.

For another thing, wood moves (see wood for not-woodworkers). As wood expands and contracts, it opens up tiny fissures in the film finish surface. Each of these cracks has the potential for allowing moisture to penetrate the surface and get between the wood and the film finish. Usually this occurs when liquid is left standing for extended periods of time on the furniture. Haziness in the finish, ‘clouds’ or white areas and particularly white rings are evidence that moisture has penetrated the film finish.

Few if any film finish moves elastically with wood. The very hardness that supposedly protects the surface eventually causes its degradation and decline. The harder the material, the more brittle it becomes over time, the less it moves with wood’s expansion and contraction and the more cracks and fissures open up, further compromising its seal. (In my humble opinion, film finishes are better suited for veneered pieces of furniture which aren’t prone to as much movement as solid wood and also need the protection that lacquer affords).

Polymerized finishes are not as scratch and moisture resistant as film finishes. Some would say they require more care and attention than lacquer finishes, which is true at face value; however, one of the primary advantages of oil finishes is that they can be spot repaired. If a scratch or other damage does occur, that area can be fixed without compromising the finish of the rest of the piece. With lacquer finishes, the whole surface must be stripped in order to perform a repair and then it must be refinished.

Perhaps the biggest pro or con to either kind of fine finish has to do with its look and this is an entirely subjective value. There are those who love to see a certain sheen level uniformly highlighting the surface of a well-made, handcrafted piece of furniture. Others prefer not to have something between them and the wood obscuring the figure and grain qualities they love so well. Over time and through many hands on it, an oiled piece develops a patina which has an alluring quality of its own, a testimony to its usefulness.

How a piece is finished represents the final choice of the soon-to-be owner of a custom made piece of furniture and the last touch of maker. It’s the culmination of a long process and while it’s probably the simplest stage, fine finishing is the most crucial on so many levels. An ill-considered choice or a hasty conclusion can compromise the integrity of an otherwise exemplary effort.

 

 

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Custom Millwork by peaslee design

Desk1RszThese days, it isn’t always easy to let your furniture make a statement about who you are and what you want your home to be. In this age of mass production, it seems the only statement you can make is the one the mass furniture manufacturers will make for you and everyone else. At peaslee design I want to change that. I offer professional custom millwork and have crafted custom wood furniture – including custom wood tables, custom wood chairs, and custom wood cabinets – for many satisfied clients. With the ability to design and craft just about any type of custom millwork you can think of, peaslee design creates custom wood furniture that is entirely personal and unique to each client.

Custom Wood Tables

One type of custom wood furniture that I produce is custom wood tables. The centerpiece of any dining area, the family table is where stories are shared and memories made – if you want to make a statement with your furniture, a custom milled table is a great way to do it. Custom wood tables can be as conservative or bold as you want, designed and built with your custom design in mind. I will create a table that is your table, generated from your concept, an heirloom-worthy piece that can be handed down from generation to generation.

Custom Wood Chairs

Many of my clients believe no custom table is complete without a set of custom wood chairs. The best thing about custom chairs is you can order as many as you think you’ll need. Order more if you have a large family or entertain often, and order less if your dinner parties are regularly small and quaint. Order every chair the same or in two different designs – one design for the side chairs and another design for chairs at the head and foot of your custom table.

Custom Wood Cabinets

Many people don’t pay much attention to their cabinets – which is unfortunate considering how much space cabinets take up in a person’s field of view. Every inch of cabinetry and potential cabinetry is square footage that you could make truly your own with the help of custom millwork from peaslee design. No matter where you want to install custom wood cabinets, from the kitchen to the bathroom and from the basement to the bedroom, I can transform cabinet space into conversation pieces that are absolutely striking and practical one-of-a-kind creations.

Custom Millwork

On top of looking amazing, my custom millwork is made strong and built to last. I sell my pieces as heirloom worthy because that is exactly what they are. All you need are loved ones to pass your custom furniture down to, and my furniture can serve your family for generations. Contact peaslee design today. I look forward to working with you. Write to me at clark@peasleedesign.com or, if you’d prefer to talk, call me at 845-594-1352.

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Custom Built‑Ins for Your Home

peaslee design can design and build strikingly beautiful custom built‑ins for your home. In the 24 years I’ve been operating independently, I’ve gained depth and breadth of experience and have become accomplished at my craft. Your imagination coupled with my expertise can create custom built‑ins that are works of art. My one‑of‑a‑kind creations will be a realization of how you envision your living space. If you’d like to take that step and turn your vision into reality, choosing custom built‑ins from peaslee design is a reliable way to get there.

Your custom built‑ins are created with your collaboration. The products handcrafted at peaslee design are not just created with you in mind, they are generated from your direct input.  I guide you step by step through the conceptual process, help you to articulate what you have in mind, produce renderings and shop drawings to flesh out your ideas and then plug in my expertise to bring your ideas to life.  This will truly be your signature piece.

Many of my customers come back again and again; they recognize this process as something that resonates with them. At peaslee design my intention is to provide you with originally conceived items that are tailored to your needs. I use the highest quality and most appropriate materials in all my cabinets and furniture. This is part of what gives your custom built‑ins value unavailable from more conventional stock cabinetry. By choosing peaslee design to help you create your custom built‑ins, you are adding substantial value to your home as well as to the way you live.

I believe custom built‑ins are an effective and practical way to connect you and your family to the place you call home. Custom built‑ins help to convert your home into a personal home.  Some of the custom work I’ve designed include:

• Entertainment Centers
• Custom Libraries
• Murphy Beds
• Cherry Kitchens
• Home Office Desks
• Bathroom Vanities
• And more

peaslee design custom built‑ins are thoughtfully developed, handcrafted using time‑honored techniques, durable for a lifetime of use as well as enhancing your living space. You’ll be delighted with your custom built‑ins in no small part because you’ve been so integral to bringing them to life.

Custom built‑ins often become the focal points of rooms. peaslee design custom built‑ins as individualized expressions turn out to be show‑stoppers. My approach to custom design is about personalizing style. I know that you’ll enjoy the whole experience, start to finish, of expressing yourself with truly authentic and tailored custom built‑ins. At peaslee design building custom creations is not something I sometimes do, building custom creations is all I do. Everything I do is held up to the highest standard, your standard.

I guarantee you’ll love your custom built‑ins from peaslee design. Go through the different tabs of the peaslee design website, get some ideas of what I can do for you and then give me a call. I look forward to working with you.

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handmade furniture design – from concept to finish

first step – the idea for handmade furniture design

Conceiving a piece of furniture is kind of like magic; but not quite. The process is real enough, though how the ideas take shape is a mystery. It starts somewhere – was the seed planted by something seen in a store or someone’s house or in a magazine? Then there’s the need: someone calls or writes and asks for a design that will go in a certain room and be a certain size. They might have an idea of what they want but most of the time they don’t; they’re just aware of the void to be filled.          handmade furniture design sketch

My job, then, is to listen to what those needs are and to interpret them into a sketch that translates an idea into a readable and editable form.

This step begins to anchor the concept because it can now be seen, understood, evaluated and amended. Otherwise, as an untethered idea, it could vanish as quickly and mysteriously as it appeared.

 

getting from here to there – mocking it up

With an original handmade furniture design, it’s nearly impossible – or at least, very unlikely – that the piece can go from drawing into production without some experimentation. Size, scale, proportions, the relationship of parts to each other and to the whole must all be resolved before the final version is made. It’s far more economical to work these issues out with materials that aren’t dear and with techniques that aren’t as time-consuming as what will come later.                                                                                     handmade furniture design, mockup 1

The product of this step is called a mockup. The parts are cut out of framing lumber, pine and plywood and then screwed together. It’s rough; put together quickly only for a visual and physical check on what the drawing hypothesized.

With this model, I discovered that the legs were a little too plain and needed some ‘dressing up’. But I did get a sense that the outward curve of the leg – intended to mimic the shape of a sofa leg which it would be flanking – was going to ‘work’. Just needed some tweaking.

handmade furniture design, mockup 2So I fashioned a couple of new legs that would both ‘dress’ them up a bit and provide more of a transition from the top section with rails to the floor.   The leg on the left is a little simpler with only one beaded detail and the one I chose to go with.

I also discovered in the mockup that the proportions were basically right and only a couple of dimensional adjustments were needed. Fairly minor.

The major discovery, though, was that the drawer as I’d first envisioned it would be incredibly impractical to make and would probably not be a pleasure to use; sharp points on either side of the drawer front would not be friendly and probably be prone to damage.

There were still a couple of detail questions but I was confident enough in the basic design to move on to making the table ‘for real’ and allow for their resolution in the prototype-building process.

 

‘prototyping’ the final product

In the best of all worlds, I’d build a handmade furniture designprototype and make the final piece afterward. In fact, for any run of more than, say, 5, I would do just that. In this real world, however, very few clients are willing to pay for that luxury for a run of 1 or 2. The risk is that discoveries, and mistakes, are still being made in this stage of the process. A blunder caused by details that weren’t fully resolved could put a serious crimp in the delivery schedule, perhaps even threaten completion itself. The trick for me is to manage those unforeseen circumstances so that the prototype can be kept true to the design intent with a minimum of do-overs and still hit the high quality standards that are expected. So I proceed maybe a little more slowly than I’d like, doing mini-mockups as needed.

No less magical than the birth of the concept, the final finished version of this handmade furniture design represents the original intent – to be a stylish complement to an existing sofa – as well as the evolution of a simple form to a completely realized product.

The process never ceases to amaze me, no matter how many times I experience it.

link to the finished piece

 

 

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solid wood and plywood – design choices, lesson 2

using wood

Remember from Lesson 1 that wood moves. Because of its cellular structure, wood is constantly ‘out of balance’ with its environment. When the air is humid, anything made of wood is absorbing moisture and swelling as it does. Conversely, when the air is dry, wood products are losing moisture and shrinking as they do.

This is a fairly simple law of nature. The difficulty arises when we push the material to do more than what’s natural; like staying straight, flat and not fall apart which are basic requirements for useful furniture and cabinets. Or when we try to prevent wood from moving at all. It’s common knowledge that we make wood products from trees, like lumber, cut the parts to the sizes that we need and glue them together. Is there anything else we really need to know than that?

For most people, no. For anyone who designs a product with wood as the material, though, knowing some basics is essential. In the first place, there are just 2 categories for wood building products: solid wood and plywood.

ven2

wood as veneer and plywood

 

wood as raw lumber

wood as planks of lumber

 

 

 

 

processing solid wood

Some rules of thumb

Generally, plywood is for large panels and solid wood is for making frames. Plywood is ideally suited for economically covering large, flat areas. It’s also much more stable than solid wood due to how it’s made. Unlike solid wood, plywood is a man-made wood product comprised of several layers of veneer that are laid perpendicular to each other. Veneer can be anywhere from about 1/32″ to 1/8″ thick and from 8″ to about 30″ wide depending upon the species and how it’s cut out of the tree. The core part of a plywood sheet is made of alternating rotary-cut sheets which is not very sightly. The faces, which are the visible parts of the board, are made of matching leaves of the best veneer, usually called ‘fancy-face’ veneer. The reason plywood is so suitable for large areas is that it does not expand or contract in width. The downside of plywood is its edge:

plywood core

There are few designs which call for the edge of plywood to be left exposed. It must either be ‘contained’ by a frame or banded with a veneered edge.

MDF, short for medium density fiberboard, is another type of plywood core. In this case, the ‘ply’ is comprised of many layers of paper laid up or glued on top of each other but having no grain direction like veneer core plywood. MDF is arguably the most stable core available but it’s also much weaker than veneer core plywood without the alternated wood layers. It’s also more vulnerable to water damage as it can absorb more than plywood.

 

Here are 2 examples of a ‘fancy-face’ table top:

solid wood and plywood

solid wood and plywood

Notice the frame around the perimeter and the highly figured wood in the center of the panel; both are tip-offs to plywood construction. In fact, a frame containing a solid wood top is not good construction as it would not move with the whole top. It would show gaps in the joints after one year.

 

Another type of veneered top:

patterned veneer top

Marquetry is fancy fancy-face veneer. It could be called the veneer-joiner’s art as it is usually made up of many small and intricate pieces of veneer carefully held together until they can be pressed permanently onto the table top. Then a solid wood frame is built around the outside to protect and conceal the edge of the core.

 

Here are 2 examples of a ‘plank’ style table top

solid wood construction

Notice the ends of the planks are exposed which is a clear indication of the solid wood construction (in some cases, ‘breadboard’ ends are attached as a way of covering up the end grain if it’s objectionable). All of the boards are running in the same direction, usually lengthwise in this kind of a table. Plank tops are more straight-forward, tending to lend themselves to ‘quieter’ or robust designs. There is a certain predictability about them.

 

solid wood and plywood

Solid wood tops are best for this kind of expansion table which has all exposed edges and is intended for less delicate use.

 

Another type of solid wood table:

1 piece plank top

This kind of top is extraordinary because of the width of the plank. In this case, 1 board is wide enough for a full top. The edges are left unworked and if the bark still adheres to them, are called ‘live edge’. The wood is so beautiful by itself – even the ‘flaws’ have a certain wild feel – that very little additional detailing is required. There are not many species of trees anymore that lend themselves to a 1-piece top. Those that are available tend to be relatively pricey.

 

Which one is better, plywood or solid wood?

It’s a common misconception that one kind of material is intrinsically more valuable and desirable than the other. This is partially due to the unsavory reputation plywood has as ugly and common. As we learned above though, neither one is inherently ‘better’ than the other. Each approach has advantages and drawbacks. Solid wood seems to be more durable because its thickness protects it from superficial damage; but, it’s heavy. Veneer can show off the choicest cuts of the rarest woods in intricate and unique patterns; but, its beauty is literally only skin deep.

The best choice for any design is made from knowing what the strengths and limitations are of the materials and from having a sense of how a product might be used in any given environment. Style and personal preferences also play a part in the equation. Plank or solid wood table tops must be carefully held down or restrained both to restrict a tendency to warp and to allow a substantial amount of expansion and contraction across their width. While plywood tops must be structural, they don’t have quite the same movement issues requiring restraint like their solid wood counterparts.

Summary Takeaway

solid wood: simple, robust design. Thickness, length and width of lumber expressed.

plywood: fancy face. Emphasis upon face; available for matching or patterned veneers.    Primarily 2 dimensional.

 

 

 

 

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